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South Africa

Much Addo About Elephants

Keep it Grassy, Buffalo

sunny 28 °C
View Around the World 06-07 on TulsaTrot's travel map.

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No ifs, ands, or BIG BUTTS about it, this is the last entry from South Africa

Greetings all, hope all are well with this last entry from South Africa. If you didn't notice or see, we've added photos, videos, and important questions for you to answer to the two previous entries, Surfing and Sliding Over Coffee and Hogs and to Life on the Sub-Sub-Continent. The internet connections haven't been participating, but we have finally found a solid one here in Cape Town. Thank you Cape Town. Since then, we have ferociously tackled our next two destinations, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town.

In addition to picking up Melissa's boyfriend in Port Elizabeth, Jesse, we were set on one thing, seeing wild Africa. Truly, that was our number one goal for Africa. You can't come to Africa and not see a bunch of large mammals running around. At the beginning of our trip, we planned on going to Kruger National Park, but with the onset of Nadine's belly expansion and malaria present in the park, we had to cut it out, and find an alternative. Initially, we thought about Pilanesburg National Park in the north, but we took the lack of movement by the tour company combined with our desire to get out of Johannesburg, as proof enough that we should find another one later in South Africa. This proved to be a great decision. We went with a combo trip to the Addo Elephant Park and Schotia Lion Reserve.

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I had previously mentioned the Big White Five, a creation all my own, but there is one more well known, the Big Five. They consist of the lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard, and the rhino. Within these two parks, you could find the Big Five. Our hope was to catch a glimpse of all five this day. Count along with us in the blog.

Early in the morning, all four of us saddled up into the nicest mini-van Nadine and I had sat in during our time in South Africa. It had air-con and soft seats with only 6 of us in the spacious van, we could have lived there.

Our first stop was the Addo Elephant Park. We entered the 16,000 hectares park in our mini-van. We are trend setters. No open-air vehicle for us with unobstructed views. We soon began following roads where we were greeted with a couple dozen African elephants cooling themselves off by slinging mud with their trunks onto their backs. Pretty sweet. Check #1 from the Big Five. Don't confuse these with the Big White Five.

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Somewhat difficult to find this guy, being that his head camouflages so well with the green shrubbery

From there, a large male came strolling down the road forcing us to stop and admire him passing in front of our family mini-van. The next stop brought us warthogs, just like Pumba from the Lion King, and a moon walking male elephant.


This guy was showing off by pulling out the Moon Walk

During the next hour and a half, several elephants passed us, poked their heads out from around corners, and stood in the horizon. After all, it was an elephant park. But in addition to the warthogs and elephants, we came across the massive Cape buffalo with his 50's style hairdo. Check #2. Over the 10 minutes we sat watching him, as the inactive animal he is, he turned his head twice, blinked once, farted three times, and moved his tail half a time.

Our mini-van guide Nick told us how these buffaloes are quite strategic and powerful. The buffalo can easily flip a lion with its' flipped up locks and with humans will act as if it is injured so whenever you are within distance to its' horns, he can simply jab you. Sneaky guy that buffalo. Or as if that isn't enough, he may run away from you and when you think he is long gone, he is planning his revenge by circling back and coming from where you never expected him to be, right behind you. Clever animal. But when we saw him, not as clever or eager at the moment, was just conserving energy and staying cool. Luckily, he wasn't waiting for us at the next corner with a broad grin on his face.

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You have to admire the effort they take in doing their hair every morning

Completing our visit in Addo, we passed zebras, not part of the Big Five, a tall snake eating bird, thank you bird, and antelopes, no relation to the cantaloupe.

From Addo, we stopped for lunch where Nadine had one of the best sandwiches we've had in 9 months, yes, I did help her, and arrived to Schotia Lion Reserve, which would be our home for the remainder of the day. We traveled around Schotia in our own personal Land Rover. Ed was our guide. As the park was divided into two sections, simply by one with lions, and the other without lions. The first one we were to visit was the one without lions, a considerable relief for Nadine.

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Everyone is accounted for up to this point

On the non-lion side, we immediately met the blue and black wildebeests. You recognize the blue because of his black tail and the black because of his white tail. Or is that vice versa? We also ran into the animal my former car was named after, the impala. Unfortunately it wasn't called the 1968 Impala, or it would have really been special. Riding through the bush, we came upon some animals that were heads and tails above the rest, the giraffe. Imagine this, 7 giraffes running between trees in front of a pond. Perfect.

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In the pond they were drinking from, laid two hippos submerged underwater with only nostrils to reveal that they were actually present. After the ease of seeing the amazing giraffes, we sat in the truck waiting for the hippos to pop out of the water. It never happened. The loud noise of air exiting their nostrils was the only proof that they were actually there in the tiny pond.


Nadine with running commentary on the giraffes

As our 1978 Land Rover went in search of the single rhino in the park, Jim Bob, that is the moment when we had the most dangerous moment in the park. As our Land Rover was following the path with deep ruts in it, our front tires caught the incline and caused our truck to jerk to the left into a big bush and instantaneous stop. Being in the open, exposed cab, it threw us from our seats to the right and due to the fact there wasn't a roof, it could have thrown us from the vehicle. Fortunately it didn't. Nadine and I both have small bruises our knees from the incident. That was as dangerous as it got.

Our search continued for Jim Bob, the single white rhino. As we climbed back safely into our seats, we went up the hill for the two ton animal. How could you not find or even lose a two ton animal with a chubby body, large horn, and a face only a mother rhino could love? Quickly, further up the road, there was our 37 year old rhino lumbering forward. Check #3. That was a massive creature.


Someone has forgot to count correctly?

After quick snack at the lodge, we were back in the Land Rover and passing through the gates to the other half, the half with the 5 lions. As soon as we entered this half and descended down a hill, we found 4 of the lions lazing in grass just watching trucks roll by. Check #4 for everyone counting at home. We sat there watching these guys from a safe distance as the sun slowly set. It was reminiscent of a West Texas sunset, not a New Mexican one, minus the lions. At the end of our time with the other half of the reserve, after all the other trucks had left, we pulled to within 15 feet of the lions, close enough to make Nadine scoot towards me, and me towards her so I could see better, but still hanging out with the lions.

No leopards this day, but we did see 4 out of the 5 Big Five.

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King of the . . . Afro

After the excitement, and both Nadine and I agreed, this had been highlight of South Africa, we parted ways with Melissa and Jesse, and took to the road again on our 12 hour bus to our last stop, Cape Town.

With two days to play with in Cape Town, and not long enough, we made our way to the top of Table Mountain. Table Mountain is a flat mountain looming large over Cape Town. Any trip to Cape Town has a requisite cable car ride to Table Mountain, and as luck would have it, we went on a day without a single cloud in the sky, but a camera with a low battery. We hiked around, had short conversations via echoes with the help of a gorge, and took as many pictures as our dying battery would allow.

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We're on top of the . . . Table Mountain

With half the day gone on Table Mountain, we spent the final half walking around the pier and running into familiar travelers for the third time, Carlos from Argentina. Good day, one left.

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Next day, we boarded a train towards the Cape of Good Hope to the town of Simon's Town, a small little town closest to the cape. Our reason for visiting Simon's Town was the population of Jackass penguins there. Anytime you can see a penguin that lives in a warm climate and makes a sound like a donkey, you can't go wrong. (*Insert your own New Mexico joke here*) Something that hit home for Nadine and I was a pair of babies asking for food from their mom, and eventually the mother had had enough and let this loud jackass sound. Thus, if you happen to hear Nadine make this sound in 6 months time, you know where it came from.

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Look at that Jackass Penguin

This week we have two questions, both equally challenging and both equally worth a postcard from Italy.

1) What mammal causes the most deaths every year to humans in Africa?

2) Out of the Big 5, which ones are diurnal?

Remember, if you have any favorite pics, videos, anything from this entire blog, email them to me at jwhit003@gmail.com before March 27th and I will post them on the final entry outside of the U.S.

Life is good and hard to believe that our trip is almost over. March 27th we fly back to the States, with Nadine going to Omaha and me back to Odessa. Yes, we are going to live with our parents in separate states. After Easter, we will be making a short little trip through Colorado (Nadine only), Texas, Oklahoma, and Nebraska. Did we mention New Mexico? Nope, skipping New Mexico.

Peace
JW
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Posted by TulsaTrot 13.03.2007 22:34 Archived in Round the World | South Africa Comments (4)

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Surfing and Sliding Over Rough Coffee and Hogs

Plus State of the Belly Part 3

sunny 29 °C
View Around the World 06-07 on TulsaTrot's travel map.

***Photos and videos have finally been added. Internet connection here has proven to be pitiful. I added photos to the last blog entry as well.***

Hope all are well as you read this, our second to last entry from South Africa. At the end of this entry, I have added our third installment of the State of the Belly Report. Watch as Nadine expands.

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Your local lifeguard on duty

From the confines of Durban, Nadine have made a steady trip south along the southern coast of South Africa to Coffee Bay. There were not any coffee beans floating around in the surf for those of you caffeine addicts looking for a new Mecca or free coffee. Nadine, Melissa, another medical student Molly, and I took advantage of Coffee Bay to work on our budding surfing skills. From our 4 person hut, we jumped in a van lacking 4 seats for 4 sets of butt cheeks, and ran over to Long Beach. It was at this point that we realized in the van that one of the other passengers, with a seat, was from the same area as Melissa's grandmother in Minneapolis. In the end, we found out that they only live 4 houses away from each other. Who knew it would take a trip to South Africa for these two people to meet? It really is a small world. But back to Long Beach, that is what I am going to call it, since we never caught the real name, and the beach was really long with the added home comfort of steers as lifeguards looking on from sand. "Moooo, grab onto my udder. I will bring you ashore."

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Who is following their own surfing lesson?

We started off with a small surfing lesson from English Sam and the warning to avoid blue bottle jellyfish, a small jellyfish that is not officially a jellyfish, but looks like a jellyfish looking for human legs to attach themselves to. Molly threw on a wet suit for safety, you can never be too safe, but that must have attracted them to her. On her first opportunity trying to hang 10 on her board, she was attacked by a blue bottle, and instead of hanging ten, only caught one. After several attempts on standing on our boards, we all rode at least one wave in.

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Hanging a full 2 on this one. That is one big wave

A little later on, the next blue bottle jellyfish, still not a jellyfish despite the name, grabbed a hold of Melissa's foot. From the recent history, I then politely asked the rest of the non-jellyfish to not grab me. They peacefully complied. After another afternoon session in rough, tide riddled waters, I had my fill of surfing and salt water. Next stop, the Hawaii professional surfing circuit only if they have Texas cows lifeguarding.

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A classic Nadine and Melissa pose from high school

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A classic Nadine and John pose, her arm around my neck

Our surfing day offered great weather, the next two did not. We planned on hiking the coast for 3 hours to the Hole in the Wall. It's a natural hole formed at the base of a small island that water rushes through with every coming wave. Instead of a miserable hike through the rain and wind, we jumped on a truck. We did hike to the top of the small islands which made me imagine what Ireland must look like with those way too green hills dropping off at the water's edge.

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That is a large hole in the wall. Need a little more than plaster

From Coffee Bay, we were on another bus to Mthatha and their bus station located at a big, clean Shell gas station stocked with delicious Magnum ice cream bars. At this point, Molly returned to her medical rotation in Durban while the three of us went to our next stop, East London. What made this 100 rand bus ride great was the fact that it was free, some glitch on their part. I rode with this guy from Argentina spending his first trip abroad in South Africa. It was the first time in a long time for me to speak Spanish and talk about Nadine and Melissa without them completely knowing what I was saying about them. I would say something to Carlos while pointing at both of the girls, and then begin laughing. I also learned a very useful expression for Argentina, tener rose. I can't reveal what it means here unless you have studied Spanish for over 2 years. Another thing, as we ate dinner at an East London restaurant, the waiter revealed that his mother was from Elma, Washington, the city right next to where Nadine lived while volunteering in Washington state. Once again, it's a small world. Next thing you know, you may have New Mexicans leaving the state and running into other green chili loving people. Ok, that's not too likely.

From East London, not anything like the actual big London over in England, but we jumped on a shuttle up to the mountain town of Hogsback. It gets its' name from the three hogback mountains towering over the area. I can also say with authority that Hogsback has the absolute best reading spot. From this point you can read, watch parrots fly by, listen to monkeys rustling in the trees, and sit right on the edge of a cliff. I called it first.

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Best spot in the world that we've found to read

Hogsback was made for hiking, and that is just what the three of us did. It had been raining heavily two days earlier and it made the first part of our hike tough. We descended down a few paths that had a stream flowing down the middle, so we simply had to straddle the trail with each step. Our first stop was at the "Big Tree." It was big and old, 800 years old. We continued on to a point in the trail that you had to cross a simple little creek, but this creek had metamorphized into a stronger, wider creek with the help of a heavy downpour. I attempted crossing it and just as soon as placed my foot down on the opposite, slippery rock, I was down in the water, with the water up to my butt cheeks. Any normal New Mexican twin would have had water up to his big nose and snorting.


Third Official State of the Belly Report

The rapids caused us to change our original route. Further on, we came to another point that we had to cross the river, less dangerous, but still intimidating. We crossed successfully, but with no path on the other side. The entire time we had been going with an 18 year old English teenager, and he had become the unofficial guide. He also stated a few times that he got lost the last time he went hiking. Not an enthusiastic endorsement. On the other side as we began bushwacking in search of the trail, it was at this exact moment that I felt the fatherness come out in me. Immediately I stopped our group, and said we had to get back to the path and stay on it. It was interesting for me to note the father-to-be in me come out. Good sign. Nadine and Melissa noticed it as well. So I would like to tell everyone right now, "Don't run with scissors in your hands! And, brush your teeth tonight! I mean it. I will pull this car over!

The rest of our hiking was enjoyable and safe. We ran up to the Swallow Tail and the Madonna and Child Waterfalls. Both were great and left us mildly wet.

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Madonna and Child Waterfalls

One of the things anyone coming to Africa or South Africa usually have at the top of their list is a trip on safari to see the Big Five. The Big Five consist of the black rhino, Cape buffalo, elephant, leopard, and lion. Since we have yet to go on a safari game trip, we have created our own Big White Five. These are animals that we've seen and have commonly seen across South Africa and they are ferocious. Don't allow your children to read these as they may have nightmares. The Big White Five are the horse, cow, sheep, goat, and donkey. We have found them in abundance crossing roads without heed to cars roaring towards them, sitting in groups under trees, and just lazing in the sun. So when you return home or are at a party after a weekend in the Texas countryside, you can tell that special someone that you saw the Big White Five, and then hike up your pants. They will look at you with envy.


From this interactive map, you can follow our entire trip by simply clicking the arrows

Life is good and our threesome is about to become a foursome as Melissa's boyfriend Jesse arrives into South Africa to travel with us for two days on a visit to two game parks. Then we head directly to Cape Town.

This week's question is a little different. Since we only have a maximum of 20 days left on our trip before we head back to the U.S., we would like to get all of those faithful readers favorites from this entire trip. So simply send me an email with your vote to jwhit003@gmail.com

What has been your favorite or most interesting picture?

Video?

Location?

Story?

Blog entry?

Comment?

Favorite traveler between Nadine and I? We already know who is going to win this one?

Favorite anything else.

Enjoy your week and let your friend know how much you like them by suggesting that they read this blog as their weekend activity. They might buy you a beer.

JW

Posted by TulsaTrot 09.03.2007 11:27 Archived in Round the World | South Africa Comments (3)

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Life on the Indian Sub-Sub-Continent

Located in Durban, South Africa of all places

semi-overcast 25 °C
View Around the World 06-07 on TulsaTrot's travel map.

*** Internet connections here in South Africa have proven to be a pain. I finally got a couple on this entry.***

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Just don't look over the edge

Greetings all in the 30 something installment of Globetrotting Around the World. We are back in South Africa after our brief week excursion into Lesotho.

First of all, congrats to Jill on unknowingly answering correctly the question from last week's entry. Give yourself a nice pat on the back Mrs. Hall! No relation to Arsenio.

In our travels around the world in the last 8 1/2 months, we have been pretty good at not losing things until recently, and now all-losing chaos has struck. It started it when I lost a homemade bookmark made by my good friend Rene in Peru. It is now floating somewhere in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam. Then, I lost my French Bible from Hermano Domingo, also from Peru. I don't believe I have any other items with me from Peru. Then in China, I lost my sunglasses after playing basketball in Yangshuo. Wait a minute, I had those with me in Peru 5 years ago. Uh oh, I'm beginning to see a pattern. Somewhere along the way I lost a Nalgene water bottle. Not an easy item to misplace and it was the only one with duct tape around the midsection. No more using the multipurpose duct tape now. Not sure if I had that in Peru. After returning from Macau, Nadine mistakenly left her knife on board with some food provisions. Pretty sure neither had been in Peru, but if had been, that food would be pretty difficult to chew. Better door stop than digestive value. Finally, this has never been in Peru unless it was made there, a towel. Not sure what it is, but I am beginning to lose things. If I come back to the U.S. without Nadine, it's because she has been to Peru three times and mistakenly misplaced her somewhere in one of our hostel rooms. Keep your fingers crossed.

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Hanging out again

Now imagine this scenario, two little girls go to kindergarden together for a year and a half. They become best friends and go to birthday parties arm in arm. Then one of these two girls moves off to a far away land. Sad, I know, pull out the hankerchief if you need it, but the short story must go on.

9 years later sitting at a high school lunch table in a new city, two young adolescent girls look at each other and ask, "did you go to Annunciation Elementary School back in Minneapolis?" The other responds, "yeah, what's it to ya?" (adds a little extra drama) And they both realize they were best friends back in Minnesota where mosquitoes are bigger than the average New Mexican graduating class. And from this point on, these two girls have been friends. Who are these two girls? It's Nadine, my wife, and Melissa, not my wife. We do have a history. We travelled together back in the summer of 2001 around Europe with mixed results, but we are back at in again here in South Africa running around the coast.

Back when we first started planning this trip, we originally planned on going to India after Asia, but due to the fact that Melissa was going to be in Durban completeing a medical rotation, we changed our route for South Africa. A very interesting fact about Durban is that it houses the largest Indian population in the world outside of India. Great to know if you have a hankering for some Indian curry. Don't eat too much of it though, your belly bloats like a jellyfish stuck on the seashore.

We met up with Melissa at Ushaka, a combo of Sea World and a water park. Melissa and Nadine had a moviesque, running across concrete steps, imagine a wheat field though, into a big fat hug. From that point, you would have thought I was a mute, far from it in reality, but as a passerby you might have thought so, as they walked and chat, chat, chatting about everything possible. I faithfully walked along side them just listening and observing.

Ushaka itself was a great place to visit, even better if you get there early enough to get a free ticket. First half of the day we spent running around the acquarium watching penguins wobble around so that they could be fed a whole sardine. The highlight was circling a tank with large, eat-you-in-one-bite circling sharks. There was also a really ugly fish that looks just like a grumpy old man with the typical extra large nose and droppy lips. Didn't notice if there were large hairs sticking out of its' ears.

The second half of the day, and defintely the most fun, less educational part of the day, was at the water park. Unlike the water parks back home, the lines on every single slide were much shorter with a shorter wait time, 12 seconds on average. This giving you plenty of time to ride each ride several hundred times if you had the stamina. I tried my best to ride each slide a dozen times, while the girls had a different strategy, talk and talk and talk floating in the lazy river.

We did take a chance to see another part of South Africa as we ran over to Port Shepstone for 24 hours. From Port Shepstone, we trucked it over to the Oribi Gorge. This gorge holds an extremely large and deep rope swing down 300 feet into the space below. We roamed around the edge of the gorge posing for dangerous looking pics that would make any mother cringe which you can now enjoy on this blog. Try to stifle your ooohhh's and aaahhh's.

After a day in Port Shepstone, we were back in Durban lazing at our hostel working on my surfing skills within the realm of a swimming pool. We decided to spend the rest of the week relaxing waiting for Melissa to finish the last day of her medical rotation.

This week's question with an estimated value of a South African postcard - Where is the world's longest bungee jump and how long is it? More importantly, can you do it for free?

Life is good and we hope all are well.

JW

Posted by TulsaTrot 05.03.2007 19:56 Archived in Round the World | South Africa Comments (2)

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